Salty anchovy butter, tapenade, garlic, more garlic, tinned fish, rocket, basil, garlic and cheese. And eggs

Sometimes, only toast will do, whether it’s thickly cut and slathered with butter (and maybe combined with flaky salt and topped with sliced radishes), popped under a mound of sauteed mushrooms (take Guardian food columnist Meera Sodha’s lead and stir in some brown and white miso), or bulked up with cheesy curried butter beans à la Yotam Ottolenghi. Toast can do it all, and at any time of day.

That said, I think we can all agree that toast is often best under some lovely, bubbly cheese. Patrick Williams, chef-owner of Kudu Collective in south-east London, does this “the South African way [AKA braaibroodjie], to snack on with a beer at a braai”. It’s serious business, too: “Back home, there’s competition between my brother and I about who makes the best,” Williams says, and success relies on using only “decent stuff”, which means good-quality cheddar and tomatoes (“bull’s heart or, if you want to be a bit ‘out there’, pineapple tomatoes”), and Mrs HS Ball’s chutney: “It’s South African and tarter than Branston pickle, and you can get it in the world food aisle of big supermarkets.” Everything then gets stuffed between two slices of bread along with a few crushed coriander seeds, salt and pepper, sometimes sliced red onion, and then goes into a pan to crisp up.

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