Brines or rubs, spatchcocked or baked upside down, our expert panel picks apart the perfect bird

What’s the best way to roast a chicken?
Nicola, by email

“Fundamentally, people overcomplicate it,” says Ed Smith, who has, rather conveniently, written a new book all about chicken, Peckish. “Yes, you can cook it at a variety of temperatures, use different fats, wet brine or dry brine, etc etc, but, ultimately, if you put a good chicken in the oven and roast it, you will have a good meal.”

To elaborate on Smith’s nonchalance, he has three key rules: “One, start with a good chicken: free-range, ideally slow-reared and under the 2kg mark – small birds just roast better, I think.” Second, it doesn’t need as long in the oven as you might think. “Whatever it says on the packet will be too long,” says Smith, who roasts his chicken for about 50 minutes in a 210C (190C fan) oven. And, last, give it a rest: “Your chicken will be better for sitting for 15-20 minutes, and will still be steaming hot when you cut into it.”

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